Here is the Homeowner's Retrofitting Contractor check list, it's for all the contractors you'll deal with before the job:

Many general Contractors think they know how to retrofit, but they've never taken the special course on Seismic Retrofitting which is what will be required in the near future upon the sale of your home. Since this involves the new requirements spelled out in the multicolor State handbook and the giant, complex blueprint, most general contractors have no idea how to do the calculations required or the work specified for a Seismic retrofit.

Make sure your contract with the contractor you choose calls specifically for a "SEISMIC RETROFIT" in those exact words. Do not rely on a verbal or hand-written assurance, have it in your contract. If the contractor cannot do the "right" work, and might be learning how to do a proper job on your home and money, you can effectively respond because of this clause in your contract.

Check and see if the contractor has the appropriate state licenses for retrofitting jobs. Make certain that the contractor possesses a special "Home improvment" license. If the contractor cannot show it to you, the contractor is improperly licensed.

Make sure the contractor is fully insured, and this insurance coverage is up to date. The contractor may try to show you "Employers Liability" and tell you this is "Liability coverage": however this will only protect the contractor and will not protect you or your property. What you want to see is "General liability" and at least one million dollars of it.

Every contractor must be bonded. If a contractor is bonded, they will be able to show you an I.D. card. The best contractors will lhave the words "No Claims" embossed on thier cards. This means no-one has complained about them to the State, and their record is clean.

Make sure the contractor will be easily accessible, for your questions and any job follow ups.

There are many delicate, old and fragile, and dangling systems under your home. Among these are cast-iron drains, original electric wiring, original gas pipes, heating ducts, sewer lines, thermostat/phone/alarm wiring, possibly some original water lines, etc. Your contract must state who is responsible for any possible (And/or likely) damage which a worker, working with sheets of plywood, compressors and nail gins, saw, etc. may do. The best contractors will have a printed (not handwritten in) phrase stating that they are professionals and will take full responsibility for any damage whih they may cause. If that is not printed as part of the contract, you will have to pay for this damage, not them.

California Sate Law requires that a licensed contractor may ask, as a deposit, no more than 10% of the contract, or $1,000, whichever is greater. The best contractors then only get the balance after the Building inspector from the city approves the work. No partial payments, halfway payments, material deliverey payments, or anything else should be requested unless the job is extensive. If a contractor wants money before the work is completed and inspected, it is an indication that the contractor has had trouble before, getting paid, or is an indication that the contractor has money problems and wants you to finance him, or both of these problems.

Make sure the contract states and allows you 3 days to cancel the contract, if you wish.

Make sure the contract tell you how to complain to the Contractors State License Board and tells you that you have one year to do so. The best contractors give you 3 years to file a complaint.

Discuss the "building permits" needed.

Be sure to keep all plans, permits, and other paperwork related to your retrofitting job to show future buyers.